Leopard Geckos are one of the most popular lizards kept as pets. Thier docile nature and ease of care makes them a great addition to anyones family.

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Hatchlings measure 3 to 4 inches long. Adult females are typically 7 to 8 inches, and males are 8 to 10 inches. Some males of the giant bloodlines reach nearly a foot. Leopard geckos are long-lived compared to some reptiles. On average you can expect your gecko to live six to 10 years, but many males live 10 to 20 years. At least one male is still breeding at 27½ years of age.

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A 10- to 20-gallon aquarium houses one leopard gecko comfortably from hatchling to adult size. Larger tanks can be better but tend to cause the geckos to stray away from their proper heat and hide box.  Any cage you choose should be at least 1 foot tall. Be sure to have a secure screen top on your gecko cage that will support a light fixture, provide good ventilation and keep out bothersome cats. A hide box filled with moist moss or vermiculite is needed, so your leopard gecko can shed its skin properly.

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There are a few ways heat your leopard gecko one form is an undertank heating. These are available at any pet store. Another form is a heat bulb. The ideal temperature for Leopard Geckos range from 75-80°F on the cool side and 80-85°F on the warm side. Provide a 90-95°F basking area on the warm side by useing a branch to get closer to the heat lamp. A Leopard Geckos enclouser should have one hot side and one cool side. This allows for a temperature variation that your lizard needs. Heat rocks tend to become too hot for leopard geckos and should be avoided due to the risk of burns.  Because leopard geckos are active at night it is still highly debated whether they need a UVB bulb or not. We here at Pets Unlimited prefer to err on the side of caution and provide them with a UVB bulb,

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We here at Pets Unlimited prefer Zoo-Meds Forest Floor for any age Leopard Gecko. Water can be added to the substrate to achive the proper humidity. Some owners prefer sand. However, a young or debilitated leopard gecko might consume sand or fine-particle products on the cage floor, and this could lead to intestinal impaction. Leopard geckos actually have a “bathroom” in one corner of their cages, and that area can be spot-cleaned without disrupting the entire system. Do not expose your gecko to commercial plant soils or sands that may contain fertilizer or pesticides.

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Live insects are a must for your gecko; they do not eat plants or veggies. The best items to use are mealworms or crickets, but you can treat your pet to waxworms or superworms once a week if you wish. Avoid feeding leopard geckos pinky mice. All insects must be first given a nutritious powdered diet for at least 12 hours before being fed to your leopard gecko. This process is called gut loading,” and it is very important to the health of your pet.

Dusting your insects is one way to deliver important vitamins and minerals to your leopard gecko. Another way to give the extra powdered supplements to your gecko is to keep a small jar lid filled with vitamin-mineral powder at all times. The gecko knows how much its body needs, and it will lick up the powder accordingly.

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​A shallow water dish with fresh water must be available at all times. It should also be stable, so it cannot be spilled. Cage substrate should be kept dry, so be careful about spillage. Make sure that young and adult leopard geckos can climb easily out of the dish you use. Vitamin drops should not be added to the water.